Dressing for the Petite

By Erin Sartori

Dressing as a petite can be difficult. Many Asian Americans fit in the petite sizing but find it difficult to highlight their best features. Here are some tips to remember.

Fabric can be the single most important factor in determining whether or not a petite can wear a style.  In general, petite women need soft, fluid fabrics.  Many times, garments such as an unlined blazer in a soft fabric will work when the same style in a stiff, bulky fabric would overpower.  Even a large, bold print will work on a petite if the material is soft and fluid.

Blouses

Large, oversized collars will dwarf a petite.  Collars should be scaled to a petite’s size and fit at the neck.

Shoulders should fit and not droop below shoulder line.  Shoulder pads are very good for a petite frame.

Cuffs of sleeves should hug the wrist – never fall below, and should fit snugly without straining the button.

Sleeves should never be too full.

Pants

Pants should never be too tight.  Hip fit is most important consideration.  A belt can always be used to pull in a waist.

The wider the pant leg, the longer the length, but make sure the pants aren’t trailing.

Cuffed pants look best on long-legged petites.

Taper as well as hem pant legs.  Scale the leg approximately ½ inch for each inch of height under 5’7” (See Chart).  The wider the pant, the softer the fabric.

For a petite who is:

Short-waisted and long-legged:  pants will be her best friend, flattering her long legs and elongating her look.  Avoid pants with a wide waistband.

Long-waisted and short legged: pants can work well as long as they fit properly and are hemmed and tapered.  A high or wide waistband will lengthen the legs.

Round in the tummy: pants should never be tight fitting.  Elastic waist, pleated front trousers are her best choices.  Be careful of flat front pants.

Hippy with short legs: pants should never be tight fitting in hips and buttocks.  Good choice is a well-tailored but fall straight from the hips to ankles with soft gathers or pleats at the top.  Smooth fabrics are also a good choice.

Do’s and Don’ts for Wearing Shorts

Do wear longer shorts that have a comfortably loose and easy-fitting leg, especially if legs are on the heavy side.  Loose, not baggy, shorts will call attention to them.

Do wear shorts with flat-heeled or low heeled shoes.

Do experiment with different short lengths.  Hemming Bermuda shorts and inch or two above the knee (particularly if short-legged), often results in a more flattering and leggier proportion.

Don’t wear shorts with too-full drawstring tops or shorts with blousy pleats.  Straight-cut drawstring tops or soft-pleated shorts will work as long as fullness isn’t exaggerated.

Dresses

Dresses provide petites with the best way to create the illusion of height.

Slits at the bottom of the dress lengthens the legs.

Soft fabrics, open necklines, shoulder details and vertical details or seaming help to create a longer look.

Skirts

Main rule – A skirt should always look longer than it does wide.

Waistbands: If short-waisted, keep waistbands narrow.  If long-waisted, bands can be wider.

Verticals:  Button down fronts, pleats, vertical seams all diminish width and add height.

Hemlines: When it comes to hemlines, fashion trends vary.  The most important  factor when determining hem length is the length of the leg from the knee to the floor.

Coats

Look for single rather than double-breasted coats.

Watch lapel width and oversized pockets or details.

Coat fabrics should be as soft as possible.  Avoid bulk.

Accessories

Quality of materials, uniqueness of design, richness of color and texture are important.

Accessories should be scaled-down to a petite’s size.  Accessories which are too large will make a petite look like she’s playing dress up.

Jewelry

Jewelry is one of the best ways the petite woman can make a fashion impression without cutting her height.  Jewelry directs the eye where the petite woman wants it to go – upward toward the neck and shoulders.

A long necklace extends a flattering neckline.  (Avoid interrupting a long, flattering neckline with a short, chunky necklace.)

Drop earrings will lengthen a look.

No jewelry should be so large as to overwhelm a small figure.

Belts

If short-waisted, wear a narrower belt.  A skinny belt that’s loosely buckled so it v’s slightly in front can make a waist look longer.

If long-waisted, a belt can be wider.

To make a short waist look longer, match the belt to the top.  To make a long waist look shorter, match the belt to the bottom.

Shoes

The right shoe, along with adding inches to height, can finish and complete an outfit.  Heel height should depend on length of the foot, not height of the body.

Shoes matched to stockings lengthen the leg.

If legs are thin, light, natural shoe shades will make them look heavier.

If legs are heavy, stay away from delicate shoes.

Shoes with ankle straps or T-straps will shorten the leg.

Tapered toes, not round toes, extend the leg.

Handbags

Handbags should never be too large or overpowering.  Remember scale.

Avoid shoulder straps which are too long.

Clutch bags should look neat and flat and scaled to size.

For more information on dressing petite, consider checking out the blog Extra Petite: A Boston Style Blog at www.extrapetite.com

Erin is the owner of Sartori Style, LLC, a company dedicated to all areas of style, with a focus in fashion and interior design. She is also a stylist for Doncaster, founder of the by-appointment, private shopping experience that is dedicated to providing unique, sophisticated and contemporary classic clothing featuring the finest quality European fabrics and workmanship not found in retail stores. Erin graduated from Penn State University where she majored in Communications with an emphasis in advertising and public relations.